An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,

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Lot 151
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace,
by Hennell, first quarter of the 20th century

Sold for £ 1,328,750 (US$ 1,737,376) inc. premium
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell, first quarter of the 20th century
Set with a double-sided cabochon emerald crescent, weighing 12.13 carats, surmounted by a marquise-cut diamond, weighing 2.47 carats, within a border of graduating old brilliant-cut diamonds and two smaller marquise-cut diamonds, suspended from a fine chain of old brilliant-cut diamonds alternating with platinum batons, terminating in a pear-shaped emerald drop, weighing 6.23 carats, unsigned, diamonds 15.95 carats total, pendant length 6.9cm, convertible to a brooch, fitting supplied, Hennell box

Footnotes

  • Accompanied by a report from Gubelin stating that the cabochon emerald crescent, weighing 12.13 carats, is of Colombian origin, with indications of insignificant clarity enhancement. Report number 18010258, dated 24 January 2018.

    Accompanied by a report from Gubelin stating that the pear-shaped emerald, weighing 6.23 carats, is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement. Report number 18010257, dated 24 January 2018.

    Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the marquise-cut diamond, weighing 2.47 carats, is E colour, VS2 clarity. Report number 2193042698, dated 29 January 2018. Also accompanied by a letter from GIA stating that the diamond has been classified as Type IIA.

    Provenance
    Louise Stephens (1888-1937)
    Descent to the current owner

    During the first decades of the 20th century, European jewellers were fascinated by the decorative arts of Persia and India, incorporating exotic "Mughal Empire" design elements, as well as gems fashioned according to ancient Indian cutting techniques, into contemporary Art Deco creations.

    The vogue resonated particularly in England due to British Imperial interests in India. Indian maharajas visiting London were, in turn, fascinated by the European mastery of platinum - a metal that had only begun to be used in jewellery from around 1900 and had completely revolutionised jewellery design. Platinum provided a framework for showcasing gemstones with only the minimum amount of metal and the resulting jewels appeared relatively weightless, especially when compared to traditional methods of setting gems in heavy gold. Indian maharajas frequently requested that European jewellers rework their priceless, antique gems into these latest platinum styles.

    The double-sided emerald crescent in this jewel is almost certainly taken from an earlier Indian or Islamic jewel. The Mughals revered emeralds - perhaps because green was the favourite colour of the Prophet Mohammed - and from the 17th century, there had been a roaring trade in the finest Colombian gems entering India. Indian lapidiaries were highly skilled in cutting the gems to maximise their weight and best display their exceptional "green fire". The crescent motif was also considered auspicious.

    This jewel, by Hennell, British Art Deco jeweller par excellence, bears comparison to another extraordinary jewel that belonged to Anita Delgado, a dancer from Spain who became the fifth wife of Jagatjit Singh Bahadur, Maharaja of Kapurthala. The photograph shows Delgado wearing on her forehead a similar, crescent-shaped emerald, given to her by her husband and set in a delicate European-style diamond and platinum mount.

Saleroom notices

  • Please note, the description of this lot should read "attributed to Hennell" not "by Hennell", as stated in the catalogue Please note that there will be no live online bidding available on this lot
Contacts
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
An emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell,
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